Fixed Competitive Price ASTM A194 8 Heavy Hex Nuts for United States Factories
ASTM A194/A194M Grade 8 Stainless Steel Heavy Hex Nuts API 6A Flange Valve Wellhead Heavy Hex Nuts Dimension Standard: ASME B18.2.2, ASME B22.214.171.124M, ISO 4033, Din934 H=D Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths Other Available Grade: ASTM A194/A194M 2H, 2HM, 4, 4L, 7, 7L, 7M, 8, 8M, 16 and so on. Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advanta...
Fixed Competitive Price ASTM A194 8 Heavy Hex Nuts for United States Factories Detail:
ASTM A194/A194M Grade 8 Stainless Steel Heavy Hex Nuts
API 6A Flange Valve Wellhead Heavy Hex Nuts
Dimension Standard: ASME B18.2.2, ASME B126.96.36.199M, ISO 4033, Din934 H=D
Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths
Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths
Other Available Grade:
ASTM A194/A194M 2H, 2HM, 4, 4L, 7, 7L, 7M, 8, 8M, 16 and so on.
Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.
Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet
Advantage: High Quality, Competitive Price, Timely Delivery,Technical Support, Supply Test Reports
Please feel free to contact us for more details.
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XM 2.1 TD glowplugs – How to access the hard to reach one near the injector pump.
Equipment: You will need a long 8mm spanner – preferably an angled or pivot head ratchet type, 10mm socket with double jointed adaptor or spanner to undo the plug, a telescopic magnet and small mirror, bright flashlight…and the patience of a saint.
This video shows how to reach number one glowplug which on the Peugeot Citroen XU11 diesels/turbo-diesels and other related diesel engines.
If you own or have worked on an XM, Xantia, Xsara, or other models in the PSA group (Peugeot-Citroen) then you’ll know that replacing the glowplugs can be a bit of a chore -especially number one plug which is tucked right down the back of the injector pump and cylinder head. More often than not, the plugs are hard to remove because previous owners or garages never smeared copper grease around the threads. If you’re lucky and the car had previous owner who looked after it, then the plugs should unwind easily although number one is still a challenge unless you follow these simple tips.
1)Firstly, disconnect the battery whenever working on engine/electrical system.
2)Remove inlet manifold and associated hoses/trunking etc.
3)Drain the cooling system as you will have to remove a pipe from its outlet on the
head to access number one. Believe me, unless you’ve got some way of
accessing the plug without removing the pump or the pipe union, this is the only
4)Disconnect glowplug feed cable from the plugs.
5)Use an airline to blow away any dirt debris from around the glowplugs.
6)Now get some anti-seize ‘juice’ or ‘Plusgas and squirt some around the glowplug
threads and leave it to work. If the threads are crudded up with corrosion you’ll
stand bit more chance of removing them than if you didn’t use plusgas. WD40 also
works but takes longer to work as being more viscous than Plusgas. I’ve used
Plusgas for over twenty three years and does what it says on the tin. A little goes a
long way due to it’s capilliary action.
7)Ensure the plug wants to move when you go to undo it. If it moves slightly don’t keep
forcing it, gently do it up again and then loosen it off again and spray more Plusgas. The action of winding it up then unwinding it helps break the corrosion seal between the head and the steel body of the plug. Do this to all three accesible plugs.
The hard to reach plug needs special consideration as this is the plug that’s often left in place due to awkward access. Please note a duff plug with 3 good ones is worse than four old plugs as the duff one will affect the system and reduce starting ability/preheat of engine.
Not all plugs come with new nuts so make sure you have spares. Use the magnet to prevent plug from falling down the front of the engine under all the pipes, cables and bits that these diesels have.
For the infamous number one plug, remove cylinder head coolant hose pipe union, loosen off the easy to reach bolt (allen key/hex bolt) and then use a soft metal drift to tap the outlet plate so it moves away to expose the glowplug that’s tight against the diesel injector pump. A bit of WD40 squirted around the pipe outlet plate means the seal can slide with the plate without damage. You could try to remove the lower bolt but it’s also very hard to get to unless you have a long, angled allen key. Even a ball-head allen key can’t reach it as the pump prevents any force from being applied plus ball heads can shear off leaving the head in the top of allen bolt. Which is why the tapping method is enough to shift this plate/pipe outlet so long as top bolt is removed.
Once this plate is moved away, the glowplug can be accessed but it’s still fiddly and you need small hands to put the 8mm nut back to secure the feed cable.
Once all plugs are out, ensure nothing falls into the holes. Now lightly smear coppergrease on top portion of the threads of the plugs. Don’t use too much as you don’t want grease in the pre-combustion chamber of the diesel.
Fit the new plugs observing correct torque (assuming you can get a small torque wrench on them but if not they just need nipping up as they don’t use crush washers but merely a tapered seat so go easy, don’t overtighten them!
Refit plug supply cable, refill cooling system and put back inlet manifold and trunking/hoses etc.
Different models have different stripdown process but the glowplug process with the awkward number one plug is same for the XU11 and other XU diesels. I normally swap out the glowplugs during a major service when the coolant is going to be changed anyway. You could remove the injector pump but that in itself is a big job and only done if the plug is well and truly seized or broken in the head. Just hope you never have to to that job…