Hot sale reasonable price ASTM A194 2HM Heavy Hex Nuts for Mauritania Manufacturers

Hot sale reasonable price ASTM A194 2HM Heavy Hex Nuts for Mauritania Manufacturers

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ASTM A194/A194M 2HM Heavy Hex Nuts API 6A Flange Valve Wellhead Heavy Hex Nuts Dimension Standard: ASME B18.2.2, ASME B18.2.4.6M, ISO 4033, Din934 H=D Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths Other Available Grade: ASTM A194/A194M 2H, 2HM, 4, 4L, 7, 7L, 7M, 8, 8M, 16 and so on. Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc. Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet Advantage: High Quality, Co...


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Hot sale reasonable price ASTM A194 2HM Heavy Hex Nuts for Mauritania Manufacturers Detail:

ASTM A194/A194M 2HM Heavy Hex Nuts

API 6A Flange Valve Wellhead Heavy Hex Nuts

Dimension Standard: ASME B18.2.2, ASME B18.2.4.6M, ISO 4033, Din934 H=D

Inch Size: 1/4”-4” with various lengths

Metric Size: M6-M100 with various lengths

Other Available Grade:

ASTM A194/A194M 2H, 2HM, 4, 4L, 7, 7L, 7M, 8, 8M, 16 and so on.

Finish: Plain, Black Oxide, Zinc Plated, Zinc Nickel Plated, Cadmium Plated, PTFE etc.

Packing: Bulk about 25 kgs each carton, 36 cartons each pallet

Advantage: High Quality, Competitive Price, Timely Delivery,Technical Support, Supply Test Reports

Please feel free to contact us for more details.


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  • Video tutorial on how to replace and preload the front wheel bearing on a Ford Ranger 2wd. If you are removing the wheel bearing, you must remove the caliper carrier, which I do have a video on that particular procedure. This video can also be used for wheel bearing maintenance beyond replacement as wheel bearings do need to be checked and lubricated about every 12,000miles/20,000km or once a year. Proper maintenance intervals will ensure the wheels bearings do not have any premature failures. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger regular cab short box 2wd.

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    Tools/Supplies Needed:
    -jack
    -axle stand
    -large interlocking pliers
    -pliers
    -johnson/breaker bar
    -15mm socket
    -13mm socket
    -24mm socket
    -ratchet
    -hammer
    -wheel bearing grease
    -two cotter pins
    -degreaser
    -rubber gloves (used in the video is Permatex Black 5 mil Nitrile Disposable Gloves #08184)

    Procedure:
    -the caliper and carrier must be removed in order to remove the wheel bearing
    -remove the grease cap using interlocking pliers
    -remove the cotter pin which holds the nut into place
    -remove the metal retaining cap
    -remove the 24mm nut holding the hub assembly into place
    -pull the rotor back until the flat washer is flush with the spindle shaft, then push it back
    -this will allow us to easily remove the washer and outer wheel bearing
    -remove the rotor and hub assembly
    -new bearings do come with an outer race which is not needed considering the hub assemblies already have them installed
    -take a glob of grease and place it in the palm of your hand
    -push the grease throughout the bearing, removing any empty spaces or pockets
    -once satisfied, place the inner bearing in its location, then apply some more grease against the bearing and around the edge of the seal
    -place the seal in its location and gently tap it in using a hammer on the elevated side
    -remove the old grease using some paper towel on the spindle shaft
    -use a degreaser if needed as well
    -using a wire brush, clean the sealing surface at the end of the spindle shaft
    -remove any loose debris which can contaminate the bearing assembly
    -give the spindle shaft a final wipe down and install the assembly
    -rotate the rotor to help seat the seal, then install the outer bearing, washer, and nut
    -rotate the hub which will help seat the bearing while tightening the nut to 17 to 25 ft lbs
    -if you are using an inch pound torque wrench such as me, it will be 204 to 300 inch pounds
    -back the nut off half a turn
    -retorque nut 18 to 20 inch pounds
    -make sure there is no play, install the metal retainer cap and orient the cap so the holes line up for the cotter pin
    -install a new cotter pin and bent over the ends
    -reinstall the grease cap and gently tap it into place using a hammer

    Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

    © 4DIYers 2013
    All Rights Reserved
    No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.



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