OEM/ODM Supplier for ISO4026, ISO4027, ISO4028, ISO4029 Socket Set Screws to Spain Manufacturer
Metric Size Socket Set Screws Thread Size: M1.4-M52 DIN913, DIN914, DIN915, DIN916 ISO4026, ISO4027, ISO4028, ISO4029 Various Drive and Point Types Various Surface Finishes Other Material Grades are available Please feel free to contact us for more details
OEM/ODM Supplier for ISO4026, ISO4027, ISO4028, ISO4029 Socket Set Screws to Spain Manufacturer Detail:
Metric Size Socket Set Screws
Thread Size: M1.4-M52
DIN913, DIN914, DIN915, DIN916
ISO4026, ISO4027, ISO4028, ISO4029
Various Drive and Point Types
Various Surface Finishes
Other Material Grades are available
Please feel free to contact us for more details
Product detail pictures:
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Machining A Replacement Pulley With A Keyway, by Clickspring.
In this video, I machine a replacement pulley for my 1″ Delta belt sander. This is a perfect mini lathe project, with some interesting turning between centers, as well as the formation of a keyway using the lathe as a manual shaper.
Be sure to use breathing protection whenever using heat to break a super glue bond.
You can download the dimensioned drawing for this particular pulley for free from the Clickspring website:
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.
If you would like to help support the creation of these video’s, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/clickspring
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit http://www.clickspringprojects.com
Other Videos to Watch:
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop – Part 4 – Cutting The Wheels
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop – Part 5 – Cutting The Pinions
Ask Me A Question:
Portuguese subtitles courtesy of Emanuel Mendes
00:50 The second is the v-groove for the belt. It’s has a 30 degree included angle, and not very deep, so I’ll form that with the lathe compound. And lastly, there’s the set screw hole, which I’ll do on the mill. If you’d like to know the dimensions, I’ve put a link to some free drawings in the description box below.
01:07 These are the materials I’ll be using for the job. I’ve got this excellent little piece of aluminium that’s a left over from another project, although it’s a bit too short for chucking, so I’m going to turn it between centers to form the features. So that means I need an arbor, and I’ve have this nice length of silver steel for that.
01:40 The arbor needs centers on each end, so I set it to run true in a 4 jaw chuck, and then faced and center drilled the ends. Next I drilled and then reamed the slug of aluminium to match the outside diameter of the arbor.
02:35 The work is a nice close fit on the arbor, so a small amount of the glue is enough to hold it firmly in place for the rest of the job provided I don’t let the heat from the cutting, build up too much. I formed a temporary center from some hex stock, and then set up the lathe for turning between centers.
03:46 Next I formed the basic profile of the part. I’d like a nice generous fillet in the corner for strength, so I’ve ground quite a large radius on the cutting tool. a lot of cutter contact when it’s right in the corner, but a shallow depth of cut It means there’s made the chatter quite manageable.
04:24 Then I set the compound over to 15 degrees to cut the flanks of the groove. I’ve ground this narrow, blunt nosed cutting tool to do the cutting. It can cut on both sides of the tool, which is going to be handy in this case, to get a matching surface at the bottom of the pulley groove.
05:43 The facing cuts didn’t quite get to the arbor, so there’s a small burr at each end of the hole to take care of. I used this hand held countersink to knock them off. So with the profile complete, it’s time to sort out the keyway.
06:37 I started by feeding in 2 thousandths with each pass to begin with, but as the cut became more established, I had to reduce that to a half thou per cut, and make 3 passes at each depth. I found that any more than that put too much strain on the carriage wheel.
07:11 The cutting action is not unlike that of a
shaper; it makes similar looking chips. And it generates quite a clean cut. So with the keyway finished, the pulley is almost complete; It just needs a quick trip to the mill to drill and tap a hole for a set screw.
MACHINE SHOP TIPS #151 Cutting a Keyway on the Lathe – a new ”abroach” tubalcain
Machining A Replacement Pulley With A Keyway, by Clickspring.
Good and safe work practices are important before doing any type of welding. Always check for hazards in the workplace such as oily rags or flammable or combustible material near welding sparks. Ensure your workplace is clean, well lit, well ventilated and with appropriate fire fighting equipment close at hand. Don’t perform any part of this setting up procedure near a source of ignition or while smoking!
Before starting, inspect all equipment for damage and ensure no oil or other contamination is present on fittings, hoses and blowpipe. Pay particular attention to all connections.
When using gas products always read the labels and safety data sheets before use. Ensure both cylinders are restrained securely.
Ensure that the regulators are in good condition and safe to use.
In Australia the pressure adjusting knob of regulators are colour coded to assist with fitting them to the correct gas cylinder: Black — Oxygen, Red — Acetylene, Orange — LPG.
Fit the correct BOC flashback arrestor to both regulators — blue for oxygen and red for acetylene.
For side entry cylinders always make sure that the acetylene regulator outlet connector faces away from the oxygen cylinder.
Attach the regulators to their respective cylinders and tighten sufficiently to prevent leaks.
Attach the hoses to their corresponding regulator end flashback arrestors — blue for oxygen red for acetylene. Open the cylinder valves slowly.
Slightly screw in the adjusting knobs of both regulators to clear regulators and hoses of any dirt and dust. Back off adjusting knobs and close cylinder valves. Do not stand in front of or behind the regulator when opening the cylinder.
Attach the other ends of the hose to the correct oxygen (RH thread) and acetylene (LH thread) on the welding blowpipe.
It’s important to attach flashback arrestors to both ends — regulator end and torch end as described in the Code of Practice for Welding Processes and AS4839.
Attach the other ends of the hose to the correct oxygen and acetylene flashback arrestor on the welding blowpipe.
For brazing, select the correct welding tip for the job and screw into mixer. Unscrew the sleeve on the mixer to rotate the welding tip to the required position, retighten sleeve.
For this demonstration we are brazing a 25mm diameter copper pipe and using Prosilver 15 filler material.
The most common type of joint used for brazing is the lap joint or the sleeve joint in the case of tubular components.
For a good, strong lap joint it’s important to consider the joint gap and the degree of overlap. The general rule for tubular joints is that the overlap should be one pipe diameter for sizes up to 25mm diameter tube.
When heating a joint for brazing it is essential that it is slowly and evenly heated to the brazing temperature. The type and size of the flame will depend on the parent material and the mass of the components.
Once the area is hot enough use the pipe expander to widen the pipe. This will create a sleeve for the copper tube to fit into.
Apply slow, even heat to the joint ready for brazing. As a temperature guide, either the colour of the metals or the condition of the flux may be used eg the flux on a joint that has reached the correct temperature for brazing should be clear, fluid and flow over the joint area like water.
When the brazing temperature is reached the filler metal is applied by touching the joint gap with the rod and applying some indirect or splash heat from the torch to the parent material. The molten filler metal will follow the heat from the flame as it is directed along the joint. The brazing alloy should be applied according to its flow characteristics; an alloy with free-flowing characteristics such as ProSilver 56T should be touched at one point on the joint, from where it will flow into and around the joint by capillary action.
A less-free flowing alloy, such as ProSilver 39T, should be applied along or around the entire joint, building up a fillet of alloy. If phosphorus bearing filler rods are used, such as ProSilver 5, the colour of the metal should be a dull cherry red before the rod is applied to the joint gap.
Once brazing has been completed the heating should be discontinued, as excess heating may cause metallurgical problems with the parent materials and porosity in the filler materials.
When the alloy has solidified, the joint can be quenched in water to help remove flux residues. Quenching should only be carried out when it will not damage the properties of the parent metals, or cause cracking because of stresses caused by the thermal shock.
Working with gas is as easy as BOC. Check us out instore or online at www.boc.com.au