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Freightliner fuel tank straps.
If you live in the rust belt and own a semi tractor, part of the annual DOT inspection is checking the condition of the fuel tank, fuel lines and the tank mounting straps.
Some trucks have a bracket the fuel tank sits on with straps that go over the top of the tank. Others have brackets on top of the tank with straps that wrap around the bottom of the tank, with this design if you have a 120 gallon tank there is 800 to 900 pounds of fuel secured to the truck by the fuel tank straps. In most cases these fuel tank straps are fabricated from the factory using 12 gauge mild steel. With more aggressive ice melt chemicals like potassium and magnesium chloride now in wide use coupled with fairings that cover the fuel tanks for aerodynamics these steel fuel tank straps rot and rust away very quickly. A characteristic of potassium and magnesium chloride is that it gets in every nook and cranny under a vehicle and gets reactivated every time it comes in contact with moisture, so driving in a summer rainstorm, or even 90% humidity summer air gives these chemicals the ability to keep on munching away at any metal that corrodes, all year long. I have found many Freightliner model FLD120’s that will have the fuel tank straps in very rusted out or very thin condition, not something you would want to trust to hold nearly a half ton of fuel. The new fuel tank straps from Freightliner that incorporate a 5/8” T bolt at each end range from $450 to $550 per strap depending on what dealer you buy from, and are made from the same mild steel that the original straps were. The first winter with the new straps begins the rust and rot process all over again.
I began fabricating replacement fuel tank straps for these Freightliners from 16 gauge 304 stainless steel with a 2B finish, this eliminates the corrosion and maintains the structural integrity of the straps that hold nearly a half ton of fuel to the truck.
The most difficult part of the process is finding T bolts, as Freightliner does not sell the T bolts separately. These T bolts are 5/8” forged steel, I have contacted over 30 different companies that manufacture forged T bolts but none have anything close. So I am limited to using the T bolts that are in good shape from the original straps, or from Heavy truck part yards.
A set of four of these stainless steel fuel tank straps is $1500 plus $60 shipping.
I currently make them for the Freightliner FLD120 trucks, however, with dimension information and T bolt or specialized hardware available, I can fabricate them for Peterbilt, Kenworth and other brands as well.
Please contact me at don@donsoil.com

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I got this idea from the Fat Bee Man (YouTube user fineshooter). Fatbeeman is a commercial beekeeper that has a really fine YouTube channel where he shares a lot of really good information.

I saw his video where he was showing mason jars that had comb built into them. He then tells how this comb honey sells for a large premium because nobody can figure out how the comb was put into the regular mouth jars.

Its actually pretty easy if you let the bees do it for you.

What he did was take some exterior grade wood and cut holes in it so that he could set the mouth of the jars into the hive.

I am sure this works well, and I have seen several videos of people duplicating his idea of upside down mason jars. However, I wanted my jars to have the protection of a hive body, and to be more sturdily attached than just using gravity.

What I did was to use my hole saw to drill the large holes, but instead of making them so large to fit the jar mouth, I made them smaller so I had some wood to attach the rings to.

I used 4 small brass screws to attach a mason jar ring to each the board. Now I can screw the jar to the board so I don’t have to worry about comb being attached to the mouth of the jar.

One tip I would give you is to melt some beeswax in the bottom of the jar to give the bees something to attach their comb to.

Once the jar is filled with capped comb, remove it and top off with honey.

Harvesting in this method will reduce yields, but with the right marketing you should be able to make as much as normal by selling the jars at a premium.
Update:

it is now 2017 and I have used this Mason Jar Honey Super for several seasons. I am unhappy with it, and don’t think it is worth the effort. I haven’t gotten very much honey from the boxes. and won’t be doing this again.